Turned shoe and method of making the same.



` M. L. DODGE, TDnNr-D 4sHoE AND METHDD DFMAK|ND THE SAME.

, APPLICATION FILED AUGLZZ. |915. 1,221,153, Patented Apr. 3, 1917.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

M. L. DDDGE.

TURNED sHoE AND METHOD 0F; MAKING THE SAME.

- APPLICATION FILED AUG.22. i916. 1,221,153. Patented 1pm, 1917...

2 SHEETS-SHEET Z.

v a u r n f i I I l MILTON L. DODGE, OF NEWBURYPOBT, MAE BACHUSETTS.

TU BNED SHOE ,AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Specification of Letters I'atent.

Patented Apr. 3, 191.7.

Application tlc-d August 22, 1816. Serial No. 216,331.

To allwhomz'tmay eminem: v

Be it known that I, li/IiL'roN L. Donne, a

Ycitizen of the United States, residing at Newburyport, in the county of Essex and State of-Massachusetts, have invented new and useful improvements in Turned Shoes and I IMethods of Making the- Same, of whlch the followin is a specification.

The `o ject of the present invention Vis to provioleel new and improved methodbi; making turned shoes, and the invention relates particularly to the method of anchoring` the forward extremities of a stiff .molti ed counterstrifener, whereby said extreme vLies and the adjacent portions of the shoe upper will be caused to hug 'closely the arch portion of the foot. f

A common method heretofore followed, in which a Stiff molded conntenstiifener is used, consists in nailing the heel-seat flange of such counter-stiffener to ailat nail-receiving member iprior to assembling the counter sti'ener and such. nail-receiving member with the other elements of theshoe. In conk sequence of such former Imethod the forward extremities of the counter-stiliener have .been dependent for their anchorage upon the said nail-.receiving member. Such nailre ce'iving members are usually made of rela 30.'

.tively cheap material such as fiber boar and although the nails used to fasten the flange ofthe counter-stiffener to such nail-receiving member may have heads and may be turned back and clenched` at their points.' the eounted-sti'ener does not have a ,sufficiently secure anchorage because the nail-receiving member is not sulliciently firm .or tough to prevent the nails from working loose when Worn. This is especially true when the s oe has been wet, for when the'fiber board orl other cheap material of i which the nail-receiving member is made be comes wet it loses substantially all its virtue asa means of anchorage for the nails. 'It thus 4follows `that the forward extremities Aof 'the countenstiliener are forced apart,

-;their anchoring. nails become loose, if not -fully freed from the nail-receiving member,

Werd extremities o -amd` the shank portion of the 'shoe belges, so.

destroyingthefit of theshoe and4 causing an unsightly jappearance.

. 'iny fresent invention the 1for-- the stili' molded counter stiffener are nailed directly to the sole of the shoe, andthe nails used for such purpose beingv anchored in the soif, land preferably being worn. The term nails as used for the purpo of describing the present invenV tion7 is used in'its broad sense to include tacks and es. 65.

0f 'the accompanying drawings, Fi ure 1`represents a top pien view off a laster. shoe befc ee being; turned., nml includes a stift' molded ecouter stiifener., the extremities of' which feel-cned 'to the sole of the 'fi shoe ry staples driven into the sole enti clenched therein. i Fig'. 2 re |n-es.nitf;-: a sectional view on a larger scale through the structure intersecteil by line 2Min* of lligg. l, and includes a. metal 75 nailing jack on which th'e shoe meg! be snpported .for driving the stap-les shown in Fig. l.

BMS of Fig. l, :tud includes the nailing jack shown in Fig. represents a. vertical sectional v iew ,similar to Fig. 3, excepting that one of .the

staples has not been driven, und n. steel plate ,85 is arranged in tiiechannel of the sole to turn beck and clench the -points of the staple.

Fig. 5 represents a verticel section similar to Fig. showing the shanks of the staple as having been driven ell the way through the sole and tui-nec.. back and clenched. by `the nailing jack.

Fig. G represents e. ltop plan view of the shoe after it hes been turned.l and nailed around the hee.. portion.

.Fig-7 represents e sectional. view through.lv the structure imersected by the line 7-7 of Fig. il.

Fig. 8 represents a sectional View sniilar to Fig. 7 exee} ting that the heel portion of 100 the upper has not been connected to the sole.

The saine reference characters indicate the same parte wherever tl'iey occur.

Thev lasting of a turned shoe may be completeci before-the shoe is turned, or. the lastlng of the heel end maybe postponed until` after the shoe has been turned. According 'tothe :method first stated it is common to continue the channel of the sole-all the'way around the latter, to perform the lasting suhno.

the sole all the way around the shoe by` sewing, prior to turning the shoe? According to the second method the fore ptrt and shank portion of the` shoe would pulled over and lasted and the pulled-over 4portion of the upper would be com'iected to the sole by stitc ng; leaving the heel portion' of the shoe unlasted, andthe heel por tion of the upper disconnected(timporarily, from the sole. In this case thel rcel portion of the upper is pulled over, lasted, and nailed to the sole after th'e shoe has been turned.

-I have described both the foregoing methods of lasting in order to indicate that my new and improved methodof anchoringa stiff molded counter-stitfener to the solo may be followed in conjunction with either of the said methods of lasting. I l

Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate a shoe that has been lasted` according' to thel method tirst described, that is, lasting is-completed be fore the shoe is turned. The sole, upper, and lining of the shoe are indicated re- Spectively at 10, 1l, and 12. The liningl is slit transversely at opposite sides of the shank portion as indicated at 13, 13, and that portion of the lining that is in front of the slits is lasted and sewn by the stitches H that contact the upper with the sole. The stitch-receiving channel of the sole is indicated at 15 and 'the channel-flap is indicated at 16. The rear portion l2 of 'the lining is not caught by. the stitches 14 or otherwise fastened to the between substance, but is left free so that it may be tucked inside the counter-sti'ener after the shoe has.

V been turned.

Assuming that the shoe has been lasted and sewed 'according to the method first described, it is ready to receive a stiil1 molded counter-stiifener, but before the' latter is attached the last should be removed from the shoe in order to permit the shank portion of the sole 1U to he straightened. I, therefore remove the last from the shoe and place the shoe upon a suitable nailing jack such as that indicated at 1T, the top surface of such jack being substantially flat for the pur pose of sustaining the heel portion and shank portion of a sole in flat condition while the extremities of the counter-stitiener are heilig fastened. A stift' molded counter-stifener is indicated at 18 and the heelseat flange thereof is indicated at 19. This counter-stitl'ener is placed right side up on the sole 10 or on the marginal portion of the upper after the latter .has been trimmed. Suitable fasteners are then driven through the forward extremities of the flange 19 and into the sole 10. For this purpose I have found staples desirable, and such staples are indicated at 20, 20. The extremities of the counter-stiffcner are arranged so close to each other that they will cause the shank,

portion o the shoe t0 hug the shank por.

tionof th foot." l l The points of the staples may be turned hack and clenched in the channel 15 or they may he driven all the -way through the sole und clenched against the nailing jack 17, hut 1 prefer to clench them in the channel because in that case they will not mar the appearance of the bottom of the sole when the shoe is finished. I will describe first the method of clenching the points in the channel. Fig. 4 shows a staple that has not been driven but is in position to be driven. The element indicated at 21 is a thin steel plate. This. plate serves as an anvil' and its function is to `turn back and clench the points of the staples in the channeh One marginal portion of the plate may be inserted into the channel as shown prior to vdriving the fastener. Thus when the Shanks of the staple have passed through the Bange of the counter--stiflener and through the channeldlap 1G of the sole they will en counter the anvil '.21 and be turned back and clenched substantially as shown hy' Fi 2. W hen one extremity of the counter-sti ener has been anchored in this manner the anvil 2]. may he removed and then inserted into the ehannelin the opposite marginal portion of the sole. i

If it is desired vto drive the fasteners all the way through the sole, longer Shanks would be necessary to cause the points to be turned back and clenched. However, a staple having shanks like those shown' .in Figs. il, 3. and 4 would pass substantially all the way through the sole, provided the anvil 21 were not used-,but would notbe long enough to be turned back and clenched by the nailing jacks It is to be understood that the fundamental principle of my improved method does not depend upon clenching the poi-nts of the fasteners. The feature that I consider broadly new is fastening the extremities of the counter-stiifener directly to the sole by fasteners extending through the flange and into the sole. However, if it is desired to drive the staples entirely through the sole and to turn hack and clench their points as shown by Fig. 5, the nailing jack will promote such operation `without the" use of any additional anvil.

When the extremities of the counter-stiffener have been securely anchored to the sole hy any one of the methods described, the shoe 1s ready to be turned. In the course of turning the shoe the loose rear portion 12 of the lining will be carried over the upper edge of thecounter-stiifener so that it may be tucked inside the latter'and cemented to theinner face thereof as shownhy Figs. 7 and 8. Having turned the shoe and cemented the lining to the inner face of the counterstiffencr'the next operation would be to insert a nailreceiving member Q2 in be .leirl (lo the" heel portion and :sl-ruoli rmi-tion Tho primo-nml inictrm f; the .member '1h33 to aflorrl anchor. a l r the usual hcoieoet nails Q3. The choc shown. hy Fig. "I ie cei'npletely lostefl hei-'ore being turned, the upper :mal Sole being connected. by the stitches 14 around the heel. portion als Well os around the other portions. When my l. oil 'attaching o cmintcr Stiener in l in :l ehm.: of this; hind the anchor-4 ing" o thc montar-Stifte completefgl hy driving tho nucl-sent mils 23.

laoolyocoi; nails are, giriifcn they poss; through the fiole., through the i;wlled-'ovor portion of the upper, through the flange of the counter-v Stilihnem throng the: corresponding flange of the lining ml tlirwrngh the incr# 15mm {fior- 'fvlng n'lemh Q2 'llhe is placed lonnit: in the o; the heel. fleet 'noils5 l with o. metal. heel pinto neil mdc according to the in leaving tip href.

portion in en nu. the Shoo i torn lf, the heel sole would he benl; np ohovvn to enable looting; techo 26 to he drm through the pulleclover portion oif the n?? per,v through the heeteeet lining@ of tlc c 3uriter-otifoncr, rough the correspon 11i:,LrgiinolL poron of tlm/liningy end. throngh the nail-sico 'member Snell, looting tache wojlilo he tinncfll; hack anni clenched in the -x'nornher ,872 by the metal plate of the lest.A The anchoring or the connteretitfener istliue "nltletnntielly completed lay flriving the las tzr oronncl Ithe lieolportion of the 5h00, 'ontmoet J eel portion. has been thuinstr-.tl the heel or op?. the solo moot if heel-scet nais es thrice inlicotocl. i:

through the than@ of the Connie? .n.ffener and vill. he torrie olli-1 heil in the 'mlreceivnig member 22, so that the michoringj of the counter-simenon around the heel portion will he doubly secure.

`my in'iprovefl method of anchoring 'the' countcrotifener docs not effect the remain# der oi the shown-along; oporetion, wli not be noce-esimo? to or `eil fnrtlier 'with' e e scription ol the ,lot

n n it new to to the sole prior nl. it

stilloncr the manine m2o-me lil/hen enel) that enzallce the crtromities'ot the counter they con not he clis placed. loterally with relation, to the sole and lreventa the upper from bulging at the slmn portion. v Although I hom not shown or described :my other means than metallic fasteners for enolioring the., est treinitieo of the counter stirfener to the solo, the invention contemplntes any kind. of fasteners that would serve the purposeJ7 and the term fasteners as heeft in.' the -cloims .is intended to includostitchee encopting where metallic fasteners are specifically rfciteL,

'1. In. the ort oi method comprisin shoe onl e pulled-.over portion of the Hoppe to the jle, arranging o Stiff mold-A erl cour-ntf stiilener right side op on the heel 1 ion of shoe, aiilchoring the extremif i' oi." thc countnnstiffenor to the sole by ma-king turn shOeS, the

orb/ing fasteners through the flange of the;

clenching the 'points of letter seid fasteners.

n the ort of making turn sl1oes,"th method eomprisii 1g the steps of lasting the shoe and ssewingthe pnlle-over portion of `the opper to the solo, arranging e stiff `molded coixntereti'en sr right .side up on the heel portion tiee ont the connlenstifener to the Solebj' driving' fester-tert, throngh'the flange ofthe cmintcoetenor Lnd into the shank portion of 'the shoe, turning); the solo, inserting el nail# receiving member in the heel portion of the and enchorng the rear portion of the com y.erfstililenczfr 'oy tlriving-metnllic fasten through 'the flange of the lutter and thro-ngi: seid nuit-receiving 'nuernberg' Vand turning lanci; one? olencliing the points of the latter said fusteinere In the art of making turn shoes, the lnetho comprisi 1g the steps of lasting the choc and slewing the pulled-over portion of the' upper to the sole, arranging a. stil molded counter" 1,"uit'ener right side up on the heel. portion of the shoe, anchoring the cl milities of t' 1e conntenstilfener to the sole oy rlrivinnj :mils through the ange of stilener and intothe solc,turn fl clencliingthe points ot said ,x tie choc, end onehoring the counter stioner by'driw ing?, 1' the solo.J oronn the incrv 'he moll-o it, ond through 52ml. angc,

heele and clenohing the points' of ils.

. l. *r r.- fl.. .ln .the ort of ethno. communion the'eteps of lowing the making turn shoes, the

the steps of lasting the ugh seid Herge, and turning 'nach and y the elmoa anchoring the extremishoe and sewing the pulled-over portion of the upper to the sole, arranging a stiff molded counter-stillener right side up on the heel portion of the shoe, anchoring the extremities of the counter-stllener to the sole by driving nails through the ,flange of the counter-stilfener and into the sole, turning back and clenching the points of' saidl nails in an incision in the sole, turning the shoe, and anchoring the rear portion of bhe counter-stiifener by driving nails through the sole, around the margin of the heel-seat, and through said flange, and turning back and clenching the points of the latter said nails.

5. In the art of making turn shoes, the method comprising the steps of lasting the Shoe and sewing the pulled-over portion of the upper to a sole that has a stitch-receiving channel, arranging a stiff molded counter-stiener right side up on the heel portion of the shoe, anchoring the extremities of the counter-stifener to the sole by driving nails through the flange of the counter-stiffener and` through the channel-flap of the sole, turning back and clenehing the points of said nails in the stitclrreceiv-ing channel of 'the sole, turning the shoe, and anchoring the rear portion of the counter-stifener by driving nailsfthrough the sole, around the mar- Y gin of the heel-seat, and through said flange,

and turning back and clenehing'the points of the latter said nails. `1

6. In the art of making turn shoes, thev method comprising the steps of lasting the lshoe and sewing the `pulled-over portion of the upper to the' sole, arranging a stiff molded counter-stiffener right side' up on the heel portion of the shoe, anchoring the extremities of the counter-stilfener to the sole by driving nails through the flange of the counter-stiliener, into the sole, and against an anvil arranged in an incision in the sole', tol turn back and clench the points of said' nails bety've'en the inner and outer faces of the sole, turning the shoe, and anlchoring the rear portion of 'the countersV stilfen'er by driying nails through the sole,

around '.the margin of the hee1-seat, and through said flange. 1'7. A turn shoe comprising a sole, an

, upper, a counter-stiffener having a heel-seat flange, nails extending through the extremities of said flange and into the shank pornaamw ing clenched and arranged to coact with the sole, and .nails extending through the heel seat margin of the sole and through said flange, the latter said nails having heads and 'clenched points.

8. A turn shoe comprising a sole, an upper, a counter-stilener having a heel-seat flange, nails extending through the extremities of said flange and into the shank portion of the sole, the points of said nails being clenched and arranged' between the inner and outer faces of the sole, and nails extending through the heel-seat margin ofthe sole and through said flange, the latter said nails having heads and clenched points.

9. A turn7 shoe comprising an upper, a sole having a stitch-receiving channel and a channel-flap, stitches connecting the upper and sole, said stitches being arranged in said channel, a counter-stilfener having a heelseat flange, nails extending through the ex tremities of said flange and through said channelflap, said nails having `clenchedpoints arranged in said channel and having heads, and nails extending through the heelseat margin of the sole and through said flange, the latter said nails having heads and clenched points.. i

10. A ,turn shoe comprising an upper, a sole havinga stitch-receiving channel and a 'channel flap, stitches connecting the upper and sole, said stitches being arranged in said channel, a` eounterstill'ener having a heelseat flange, fasteners extending through the extremities of said llange and through said channel flap, said fasteners being ,-anchored to said llap in Sad channel, and fasteners extending through the heel-seat margin of the sole and through sa-id flange.

11. In the art of making turnf shoes, the method comprising lasting and uniting the upper and sole, and fastening afpreviously molded counter-stiffener directly tothe sole by driving'metallic fasteners through the forward extremities of the heel-seat llange of such ccunter-stilfener, and into' the sole, whereby said extremities" are held against displacement relatively .to the sole.

In testimony .whereof 'I have affixed-my signature.

MILTON L. DODGE. i 

